Stitched in time: First Nations fashion meets futuristic tech at THE LUME for M/FW
Melbourne / Australia
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Melbourne / Australia 〰️
ganbu marra at THE LUME. Image: Melbourne Fashion Week
TL;DR: 16 First Nations designers took to the runway for Melbourne Fashion Week at the largest digital art gallery in the world.
So what? Australia’s original innovators, THE LUME, and M/FW showed that cutting edge tech and design is alive and well down under.
Fashion is more than fabric; it's a narrative, culture, and journey. At Melbourne Fashion Week 2023, nowhere was it more evident than the tapestry of fashion, tech, and history at the ganbu marra First Nations runway at the world’s largest digital art gallery, THE LUME.
After the success of the 2022 debut of ganbu marra, this year’s show elevates outstanding First Nations talent to a whole new level. Styled by Yorta Yorta, Gomeroi and Wiradjuri stylist and creative director Anastasia Keshan, the immersive show envelopes attendees in a 360-degree multisensory experience, marrying 16 First Nations artists and designers creativity with jaw-dropping digital art from the THE LUME’s 'Connection' exhibition.
At the runway, we caught up with THE LUME founder and Chief Executive Officer, Bruce Peterson, to discuss all things digital, art and fashion—and how the oldest continuous culture on earth came to curate an unforgettable night at one of the most cutting edge galleries in the world.
ganbu marra at THE LUME. Image: Melbourne Fashion Week / Tiffany Garvie
NV: Great to meet you, Bruce! How did the idea for the ganbu marra runway at THE LUME come about? What was exciting about the possibility of using the space for Melbourne Fashion Week?
BP: The concept for the ganbu marra runway at THE LUME was born out of a desire to further celebrate and amplify emerging First Nations talent. After the success of our previous experiences, we recognised the potential of our space for unique, immersive activations and events, so fashion seemed like a natural fit.
The prospect of hosting Melbourne Fashion Week at THE LUME was exhilarating, and the ganbu marra runway, in particular, allowed us to showcase fashion and art in a mesmerising way, creating a dynamic synergy that was truly exciting.
Is there anything unexpected that surfaced from that dynamic that’s been particularly rewarding to play with?
One unexpected aspect of the ganbu marra runway was the use of our technology to create the actual runway. The fusion of fashion and art is so unique, and guests weren’t just captivated by the stunning designs but also by the way technology enhanced the entire experience. It was fashion as we’d never seen it before!
THE LUME’s digitally projected ganbu marra runway. Image: Melbourne Fashion Week / Bella Loke
Can you tell me about the influences in your life that led you to founding THE LUME?
My journey towards founding Grande Experiences and THE LUME Melbourne was influenced by a deep desire to make art and culture accessible to everyone around the world. Democratising art so to speak, and making art appeal to a general audience—not just those with an already acquired deep understanding and love.
Many moons ago I was a teacher, and my mother and grandmother were both talented artists and musicians, however it was a gap year at the age of 29 that ignited my entrepreneurial spirit.
My first foray into the world of exhibitions was in 2006 when I brokered the first Leonardo da Vinci exhibition on his machine inventions to come to Melbourne from Italy. Following this I moved with my young family to Italy to develop the largest and most comprehensive exhibition on Leonardo under the one roof.
However, thanks to my kids’ boredom at many of the famous museums, I realised there was potential for more immersive and engaging experiences. As a teacher I learned that if you want to educate someone, you need to engage them. And if you want to engage them more, you’ve got to entertain them.
This journey led me to create Grande Experiences, produce 250 exhibitions and experiences across the globe in more than 170 cities and over 22 million visitors, and then ultimately create THE LUME Melbourne, where we aim to redefine how people experience art and culture by combining cutting-edge technology with traditional art.
Call and Welcome to Country at THE LUME. Image: Melbourne Fashion Week / Bella Loke
My mum has been a teacher since the 1970’s, with a deep love of art herself. When we first went to THE LUME she was taken by how in traditional galleries you move around the art, whereas at THE LUME this dynamic flips—the art moves around you. Can you describe your first experience of walking into THE LUME?
Stepping into THE LUME for the first time is an awe-inspiring experience due to its jaw-dropping scale. It’s a 3,000 square metre, four-storey high space, and the first permanent space of its kind in the southern hemisphere and largest in the world.
THE LUME’s permanency means we can experiment with technology in ways we’d never before. Our immersive, multisensory approach makes art come alive in a way most people have never experienced before. I think what surprised me the most was how many people come to THE LUME Melbourne not just for the art, but for escapism from the outside world. It's very calming.
What emerging technologies are you excited to experiment with at THE LUME?
We're always eager to explore new technologies that can push the boundaries of what's possible at THE LUME. In Connection we've introduced Art Play, which motion-captures guests in real time, allowing them to interact with elements of the artwork in a 360-degree room. This type of interactivity adds a new layer of engagement that we're excited to further develop and expand in future experiences.
Designs left to right by MumRed, Yarrenyty Arltere Artists, Kamara, Adjadura Art. Images: Melbourne Fashion Week / Naomi Rahim
You mentioned the sheer scale and visitation that Grande Experiences and The LUME have garnered around the world. What have you learned about merging technology and art to create new digital-physical experiences?
Our extensive global presence has taught us that merging technology and art can create powerful, emotional connections with audiences. By utilising multisensory technology, we can enhance the traditional art experience and make it more accessible to a diverse range of people.
Our audio, including music, narration and sound effects, not only enhances the experience but also encourages guests to discuss the art without worrying about disturbing others. Introducing scents, large-scale projections and animations adds a new dimension to familiar famous artworks, making them more engaging and emotionally resonant.
Tell us about the current exhibition at THE LUME—Connection. What made your team curious to explore fusing the world’s oldest continuing culture with the most cutting-edge technology?
Connection is a groundbreaking experience that merges the world's oldest continuing culture with the most advanced technology. It's a celebration, featuring over 110 visual and musical artists who’ve collaborated to create the most expansive tapestry of First Peoples' art ever assembled. Across nearly 650 paintings, including 85 significant pieces of original art, emerging voices are showcased alongside master artists in the most spectacular, unique and immersive experience.
What intrigued our team was the opportunity to make this important and remarkable art accessible to a wider audience. We wanted to create a space where people could experience the incredible artistry and storytelling of First Nations artists like never before.
ganbu marra at THE LUME. Image: Melbourne Fashion Week / Bella Loke
How do you hope Melbourne Fashion Week guests feel when they come away from the ganbu marra runway?
Our hope is that when people who came to the ganbu marra runway at THE LUME, feel a profound connection to the art, culture and fashion showcased. We aimed to create an unforgettable experience that left guests inspired to explore the boundaries of creativity.
We want them to feel the magic of First Nations art and fashion in a way that lingers in their hearts and minds long after they've left our space.
Melbourne Fashion Week’s ganbu marra runway at THE LUME features First Nations artists and designers ADJADURA ART, BAYIKINA AWAKEN, Clair Helen, Elverina Johnson x Taking Shape, Ginny’s Girl Gang, Ihraa Swim, Ikuntji Artists, Kamara Australia, Kaninda, Lazy Girl Lingerie, Nungala Creative, Take Pride Movement, Ticia Designs, wa-ring, Wuurn of Kanak and Yarrenyty Arltere.
